Three Kinds of Colonial Cornbread

Back in the 1620's, when our Mayflower ancestors were struggling to survive, corn was a lifesaving grain. Thanks to help from friendly Wampanoag Indians, early Pilgrim settlers learned to plant and harvest corn, and then use it in stew dishes such as succotash; in puddings; and in various baked and fried breads.

Nowadays, modern recipes will give you a fluffy texture and sweet tasting bread. Back in Pilgrim times, however, there were lots more interesting varieties to taste. Here are three recipes that harken back to those early days. Taste and explore!

Corn Pone

The earliest settlers learned this recipe from Native Americans, who baked corn meal, mixed with water and lard, into small cakes they called "apones." Originally, these were baked among the ashes in an open fire. Later, colonists sometimes even baked them on an actual hoe, calling the result "hoecakes"! Here's a way to bake corn pone in your regular oven:

• 2 cups cornmeal
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1/2 teaspoon baking soda
• 1/4 cup butter, shortening...or, if you want to be especially close to colonial ways, lard!
• 3/4 cup boiling water
• 1/2 cup buttermilk

Start by mixing your "dry" ingredients: the cornmeal, baking soda, and salt. Then add the butter, shortening, or lard, and use a fork or even your fingers to break it up and work it into the mix. Slowly pour in the boiling water and mix thoroughly into a soft dough that you can shape with your hands. (By the way, kids especially love this stage when you point out how much it's like playdoh that you can eat!). Make about 12 round balls and flatten them into cakes about 1/2" high. Place them on a greased cookie sheet or, if you have it, a greased iron skillet. Bake them in your oven at 375° for about 30 minutes, or until golden brown. Serve warm--we especially recommend them with butter and honey!

Johnnycakes

Like corn pone, this recipe is believed to have begun with Native Americans. European settlers quickly adapted it, however, and "Johnnycakes" were widely used on the frontier. Some historians think that the name "Johnny" originally came from "Journey," since they could be carried by travelers on long trips; they were also eaten by soldiers in the Revolution and Civil War. They are a very simple form of cooked corn mash, but we do have a caution: do plan to eat them warm. Once they've cooled...well, as the famous novelist Richard Henry Dana wrote in 1840, they're likely to be "damn sour and indigestible."

• 1 cup cornmeal
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 1 teaspoon sugar
• 1-1/4 cup boiling water

Start by mixing the "dry" ingredients--cornmeal, salt, and sugar. Then stir in the boiling water. Mix until the batter is quite thick, and then spoon it into pancake-sized rounds on a well-greased frying pan. Fry until the bottom is golden brown, and then flip. When both sides are golden brown, the "johnnycake" is ready to eat. (Note: if you want thinner cakes, just add more water). Serve hot with maple syrup and butter...or, if you're adventurous, a little molasses!

Spoon Bread

This is a scrumptious cross between a bread and a pudding, and it is believed to come from the Native American dish, "suppawn."

• 1/4 cup butter
• 1 cup corn meal
• 1 teaspoon salt
• 2 cups boiling water
• 1 cup milk
• 4 eggs

Before you start mixing, preheat your oven to 425°. As the oven is warming, choose an earthenware or pyrex baking dish, place your butter into it, and place it in the oven until the dish is hot and butter is fully melted. Meanwhile, mix the cornmeal and salt, add the boiling water, and beat with a whisk until the mixture is smooth. Then stir in the milk, and add the eggs. Whisk them all together thoroughly to avoid lumps. At the very end, stir in the melted butter, and pour the whole mixture into your hot baking dish. Bake 25-30 minutes and serve warm. For an extra-flavorful touch, serve with butter and honey or maple syrup!