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Auto Information Study Guide 1 for McGraw-Hill's ASVAB (page 5)

By Dr. Janet E. Wall
McGraw-Hill Professional

Cooling System

Internal-combustion engines develop a great deal of heat from all those explosions. Only about 30 percent of the energy in gasoline is converted into energy to drive the car. The rest becomes waste heat. Unless the engine can get rid of this heat quickly, it will overheat. Waste heat is removed and delivered to the atmosphere by coolant. At first, water was used as the coolant. But water freezes in winter, and the expansion when it does so can crack the engine block. Chemicals called antifreeze are added to prevent freezing. Dissolving most chemicals in water usually lowers the freezing point. Water can also rust—corrode—the iron in an engine. Coolants also contain a chemical that halts rust, called, logically, rust inhibitor. Because rust inhibitor eventually breaks down, coolant must be replaced every few years.

Coolant flows through hollow passages in the engine block and cylinder head. These water jackets must bring enough coolant to every part of the engine block and cylinder head. From the engine block, coolant flows to the radiator, which has many small tubes covered by fins. The radiator is located on the front of the engine, where it can get plenty of fresh air.

A radiator fan pulls air through the radiator, removing heat from the tubes. The radiator is connected to the engine block through a series of hoses, which can wear out or leak.

  • Checking hose and fan belt condition is good preventive maintenance, although modern engines are packed so tightly that the hoses and belts may be hard to see.
  • Don't fill the radiator through the cap. Instead, add coolant to the translucent reservoir that's attached by hoses to the radiator. The reservoir has "low" and "full" markings; just keep coolant between these marks.
  • Repair shops have testers to determine the freezing point of coolant. If you always add coolant (50-50 antifreeze and water), your coolant should stay liquid down to about –30° F. But if you top up the radiator with water, get the freezing point checked in the fall; you may have to replace the coolant to protect the engine.

A water pump, often located on the front of the crankshaft, circulates coolant through the engine. If the water pump fails for even a few minutes, overheating and severe engine damage can result. To increase heat removal, the coolant is pressurized. Pressurized liquids stay liquid at higher temperatures, and hotter liquids can move more heat.

Although we've talked about the need to cool an engine, engines operate best after they have warmed up. To help an engine reach operating temperature, a thermostat prevents the circulation of cold coolant. Thermostats are usually located on the top of the engine, inside a housing that connects the engine block to the top radiator hose. Inside the thermostat, a metal valve opens when the coolant reaches operating temperature.

In newer cars, the fan may also help with engine warm-up. In older cars, the fan was driven from a pulley on the crankshaft by a fan belt. These fans rotated when the engine ran. Now, electrically driven fans start running only when the engine is warm.

  • Cars have either a warning light to indicate engine overheating or a gauge that measures engine temperature. Another sign of overheating is the smell of antifreeze; overheating raises engine pressure, and eventually coolant blows out through the radiator cap, releasing a cloud of sweet-smelling, greasy steam.
  • A stuck thermostat is probably the largest cause of engine overheating. If you don't drive until you correct the problem, it's usually an inexpensive one as well. Problems with fan belts, radiators, coolant level, and sensors can also cause overheating.

Engine Troubleshooting

Engines are getting more complex all the time, but it helps to know a few troubleshooting hints to score big on the ASVAB:

  • A "ping" or "knocking" sound on acceleration usually means that you need a higher-octane gasoline. The noise indicates that the fuel-air mixture is igniting too soon inside the cylinder.
  • A squealing noise that increases with engine speed indicates a loose or worn fan belt.
  • An engine that runs extremely rough may have a failed spark plug or some other problem in the ignition system.
  • General sluggishness, roughness, or poor fuel mileage all indicate the need for a tune-up.
  • Loud clanking sounds may indicate major engine problems that will only get worse if you ignore them.

Practice problems for this study guide can be found at:

Auto Information Practice Problems for McGraw-Hill's ASVAB

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